Observations from the US

Usually my trips to the US are vacation trips, and we all know vacation has little relation to reality. But this is the first time in a while I've been to the US and spent some "normal" time there. You know....getting up in the morning and going to work everyday, having a routine, etc...

For the record, it's been WONDERFUL! Except that I get really confused sometimes - at my level of German speaking, I'm used to planning in my what I'm going to say before any interaction with others. I find myself doing this, and then realizing how useless my German sentence will be to anyone here

A few random observations on life compared to Germany:

• The food portions are huge, but the beers are small
• Everyone walks to and from the train station, but few walk to lunch (maybe in summer??)
• Due to construction this morning the walk/don't walk lights were out of service for most of the walk.  I think a lot of city-dwelling Germans would have been lost when the lights stayed red forever. I wonder what's the longest someone would wait before giving up and jaywalking?
• Interestingly, everything at Starbucks has a calorie count on all its baked goods now!

The Last of the First Round Matches

And here we are, finally, after many nights of tasting beers. We'll finish up with a last round of four Pilsners.

First up, we have Hasseröder Premium Pils and Bitburger Premium Pils. Hasseröder has been brewing beer since 1872, but was a relatively small and not widely-known brewery until the 1990 German reunification. It had been a highly successful regional beer, but was not often available outside of the Magdeburg district (now part of Sachsen-Anhalt) of the DDR. However, it's been one of the big success stories after reunification - becoming one of the top three consumed pils nationwide, and one of the favorite beers in the former DDR states.  They invested heavily in technological improvements and marketing, ultimately became part of InBev and was chosen as the brand used for beer ads during the German World Cup matches in South Africa. Though Budweiser through InBev owns the rights to the beer advertising in the World Cup, the Budvar-Budweiser dispute prohibited them from using the Budweiser name. Instead, they chose Hasseröder, which generally focuses its marketing efforts on sporting teams and events.

Bitburger is one we see often on commercials, especially during televised sports. Everyone knows their slogan "Bitte ein Bit" ("Ask for a Bit" or "A Bit, Please")...their commercials are everywhere! Bitburg is located in the Eifel mountain area of Rhineland-Palatinate, near the Luxembourg border. Though pretty much every Geman brewery uses only the best ingredients, Bitbuger claims that its water source (drawn from the Bitburg Triassic Trough) gives it a superior, crisp Pilsner taste. Whether or not the water filtered through million-year old shell and sandstone makes a better beer or not, Bitburger is doing something right and is one of the top 3 selling beers across Germany.

In our contest, we preferred the Hasseröder, however. The Bit lived up to its word association and was a bit bitter compared to the crisp Hasseröder.  And in addition to a preferable taste, the Hasseröder had a really pleasing, crisp fizziness to it.  

Then we have Wernesgrüner's "Legendary Pils" vs König Pilsener, Germany's "King of Beer." Wernesgrüner has been brewing beer since 1436, which they make sure to point out was a good 50 years "before Columbus discovered America."  It's available these days in the US and Canada, and you'll definitely find it in any US Aldi that sells beer. (American friends, if you have an Aldi in your town, give it a visit!) Wernesgrüner has a long tradition of export to North America, as it was served on Hapag-Lloyd's famous Hamburg-New York cruise line in the early 1900s and was also often taken to other countries as a gift by German travellers. Today, it's owned by the Bitburger Group, and is pitched as a brewery combining hundreds of years of experience with modern technology to produce a Legendary beer.

The König Pilsener today is also part of the Bitburger Group. In addition to the usual sports marketing, they use German celebrities Til Schweiger and Boris Becker (seriously, he and his ladies are always in the tabloids and social pages!!) in promotions. König Pilsener has been around since 1825, when Herr König began brewing his beer. The brewery focuses on Pils today, though also produces an Altbier and several other beer drinks (radler, malz, alcohol-free, etc). They've been making Pils since before it was popular, so why change? This one comes from Duisburg, an inland port and major steel producing area near Düsseldorf. 

Both of these beers were considerably lighter tasting than the other two, but we picked the Wernesgrüner to be the Bitburger Group's representative in the next round.  

 

Though it's one of the biggest brewery groups in Germany, Bitburger's three pils could not stand up to InBev's Hasseröder.  Most likely it's our Bavarian-trained palates...we don't favor the super hoppy beers. It was, of course, a Pils, but we really enjoyed that they added some maltiness to balance out the hops. A really great pilsner beer.

 

Crazy Keys at the Technical Museum in Vienna

On a recent weekend trip to Vienna, Frau A and I spent a morning at the Technical Museum of Vienna.  The exhibit that I really wanted to see was on musical instruments.  This collection alone was worth the trip east from Munich.

The items represent a great combination of music and technology.  For example, the "piano maker's workshop" has instruments along the evolutionary tree of the modern piano including harpsichords, spinets, clavichords, a tangent piano, and finally the earliest forte pianos.  Even better, they have working, "cutaway" examples of the key mechanisms for about 8 different instruments, so you can see into the guts of how the sounds are actualized -- here's one example of a modern piano:

Most interesting to me were the esoteric instruments that pushed the envelope (in their time) for the type of sounds created, the method of playing and level of musical control, or even automation of the instrument(s).  I took photos of my favorites and will briefly describe them here.

Pictured below is the Janko keyboard.  Theoretically, the Jankó keyboard had a number of advantages with regard to playing technique: the same finger set for all keys, a natural hand position (the thumb always lies lower than the rest of the fingers), a broader range than a normal keyboard, as well as Glissando possibilities in all scales!  As in the chromatic keyboard, the semitones are distributed in equal sequence on a double (paired) row.

For playing-related reasons, three of these double (paired) rows are arranged with one on top of the other like a terrace. Each key thus has three points of touch. In order to facilitate orientation the familiar black and white coloring was kept.  In vented in 1882, the model below was created in 1885!  Of course, it never really caught on.

The creators did try hard for acceptance, though, even developing an instrument with both standard and Janko keyboards!

Another neat model on display had effectively the first pitch-bend for an electronic instrument.  A French music teacher and "amateur radio enthusiast" designed the "Ondes Musicales" after meeting Lew S. Termen (yes, the creator of the Theremin!).  To bend a pitch, the player slides the the metal ring along the draw string on the front of the keyboard.  The instrument won the Grand Prix de l'Exposition Mondiale at the 1937 World Exhibition in Paris.  This particular model is a later version (the earliest versions had nothing but the draw string, but it was too hard to pinpoint specific frequencies so they keyboard was added) built in 1960, and production continued until the early 1980s.

Background:  simply stated, electronic (analog) instruments create sound with valves or transistors that make audible electrical oscillations.  Unfortunately, the basic oscillation is usually pretty boring.  In order to make the timbres more interesting allow playing creativity, instrument builders had to add transient controls (change the attack & decay profile of the output), filters (adds different kinds of complexity and distortion to the wave, introduces vibrato, etc.), and other mechanism to alter and shape the output.

The Akaphon was invented around 1963 by the director Institute for Electroacoustics at the Vienna Music School.  (Cool that they already created an institute for that topic.)  Helmut Gottwald manipulated attack and decay responses through the use of light bulbs and photo resistors!  It's like the first modular synth, but limited to transient controls. no filters yet.  Here is is below, built into an upright piano cabinet!

I joke a bit with my friends when I call the next example the "first workstation".  This monster was developed by the Hupfeld company and dubbed "The 8th Wonder of the World".  Released in 1907, in incorporates a piano and three violins -- and plays them "automatically".  Each violin had only one active string, and various bellows were used to control the bow and "fingers" (bellows = pneumatically actuated).   Like a player piano, punched/perforated paper rolls dictated the action.

Technologists continue their assault on the violin with the "Schlüsselfidel" or "Nyckelhar".  A keyed violin.  The strings are played by a bow as normal, but slides and tangents are used to change the oscillating length rather than the player's fingers.  Variations of this instrument have been around since the 1400s, and still in use today in Sweden.

Brass instruments too were targets for automation.  Below is a photo of mechanical trumpet.  Again, punched tape controls mechanisms that shorten/lengthen the effective instrument length to change the pitch.  From the mid 1900s.

Filed under the category "bigger is better" must be this organ - sorry, forgot to capture the details.

Finally, things would not be complete without homage to Bob Moog.  If you don't know who he is, check Amazon for tons of books about his life and creations.

There was so much more there:  a Hönig Synthesizer from 1965, an AKA 2000 from the 1970s, and a Trautonium which uses a resistance wire (pressed by the player) to change the pitch of the oscillator...a similar model was used to make noises in Hitchcock's "The Birds", and Hindemith composed a piece for it!!!

Well, that's as much as I "brought back" to Munich with me.  The exhibition is highly recommended if you visit Vienna.  Cheers.

Photoblog - Vienna (Ice Skating)

Hopefully you saw the post about skiing in downtown Munich!  Siemens built a mini slope for skiing and sledding right in front of their world headquarters and it was a lot of fun.  We were in for another surprise on our weekend getaway to Vienna.

In Vienna we found something similar.  It was built by the city (rather than a corporate sponsor) and sat in front of the Rathaus (City Hall).  It's called the Wiener Eistraum (Vienna Ice Dream).

Instead of sledding and skiing, this is for ice skating.  When you think of ice skating, you might think of an oval rink, but Vienna added a twist -- skating routes.  They feel a bit like a lazy river at a water park.  Check out the map below and you'll see the ice skating paths on the left side.  

Here's a view from the front, taken from the sidewalk.  You see the giant Rathaus looming in the background and notice lights that ensure people can skate until 20:00 in the evening.  It looks like a typical ice skating rink...

...but now in this photo, we zoomed out a bit and you can just barely see the entrance to the skiing route on the front left.  The guy with the backpack is just starting onto the path, and the guy in the green jacket looks like he will follow.

Now we panned left so you can see the path.  It's wide enough for maybe four across, and the skating pace was quite leisurely.  A couple teen guys were moving pretty fast (as usual), but in general it looked like a relaxed way to go.  It's hard to see in the photo, but if you look at the ice skates of the woman with the blue jeans and hat (foreground, right side) on top they look almost like ski boots.  I think the child behind her has the same thing.  That's because the rental skates that were available had ski-boot like buckles on them!  Those quick-lock mechanisms work fast, are familiar, and much more convenient than long laces.  Very cool.  They should have those in the U.S..

Now we're moving further left in the scene, and the photo below (shot from the sidewalk again) shows the people skating by on the ice path.  With the Rathaus in the background it was a really pleasant atmosphere.  The had music playing...

 

... and of course tents with food and drink available.  Frau and I had some glühwein and it really warms you up on a cold day.

Now we're even further left and looking back down the sidewalk to where we started.  You get a better feel for how long the path is -- you can't see the entrance from the rink anymore.  And this is just the first leg of the path going across the front (check the map again)!  We thought about renting skates and giving it a whirl, but had other things to see.  Just another reason to go back to Vienna.

 

How Quickly Things Change...

Well, when things change, they change quickly... I'd thought I'd landed a job starting in May or June and had finally gotten into the immigrant language course after many months of dealing with the Arbeitsamt. Then I got a call late Saturday night when Herr J and were in Vienna. A "well, things have changed, can you start next week?" call that came as quite a surprise.  And while standing outside an après ski bar in Vienna, I accepted a job.

March very quickly became "travel month," as we used some train tickets I'd purchased last year. We made our tours of Vienna, Stuttgart, and Fulda-Eisenach-Point Alpha. Here I am in New York for a couple of weeks of training and leave Schnitzelbahn in Herr J's very capable hands.

Best of all, I'm finally wearing real shoes - not boots, which is all I've worn for months now! Hello Spring, I'm so glad to see you again!

Time for Easter Eggs

It's possible that Germany outdoes the US in the holiday candy area - Easter candy seems to come out on February 15th. Though I can't really complain...the holiday chocolate here is top quality!

Similar to the Christmas ones, Kinder has giant Kinder Surprise Eggs for Easter.

Inside the milky, chocolatey shell, we find a cute little chick. He's supposed to hold your pen, but he also will hug the neck of a wine bottle...we found a similar stuffed penguin in the Christmas giant eggs.

Tips for Shopping in Germany

A significant part of any travel/tourism experience is shopping.  Most visitors to Germany are looking for memorabilia rather than day-to-day items like groceries and clothes.  You usually eat in restaurants while travelling, have packed the clothes you need, and want to bring home items that are long-lasting reminders of the experience.  Besides, the groceries and clothes are not THAT much different than in the U.S. and cost considerably more.  (Thanks, VAT!)

However, Frau A and I live in Germany.  I need to get groceries, replace dress shirts & shoes, and yes, get new underwear.  I've learned a few things about shopping in Germany, and want to help ex-pats and tourists get more for their Euros.

1)  Stores are NOT open Sundays or Holiday.  Therefore, Saturday is complete chaos.  Especially before a long holiday weekend.  You get your things then, or have to wait until next weekend.  Brace yourself.  
Also, make sure to check their Saturday hours...it's only in the last 15 years that stores could be open past 4pm on Saturdays, and many of the smaller stores still close earlier than the Bavarian 8pm closing time. (Check your city's hours....the laws vary by state - Frankfurt has some open until 9 or 9:30; Stuttgart has an unbelievable midnight closing to some stores!)

The Apple Store in downtown Munich. It's a war out there.

2)  Store employees:  excellent know-how... if you can find somebody.  In Germany, the store employees in general really know what they're talking about.  They get significant amounts of training and are constantly learning about the latest products.  They can explain the different thermal properties of wool vs. synthetic materials, what brands tend to run bigger or smaller, and know every single pocket/zipper/secret compartment on every backpack in the store.

The problem is actually getting someone to help you.  The store employees are CIA-level experts at moving around undetected.  Also, the level of competence described above has a price -- they are often posted only for a very specific part of the store.  The person in the skiing jackets area will NOT help you with hiking jackets or boots, because they have not been trained on those products.  So even if you do find someone, it is likely that they will have a great reason why they cannot help you.

Recommendation:  As is typical in Germany, the squeaky wheel gets the oil.  You need to be assertive -- keep finding and bugging store employees until somebody helps you.  If you can't find anybody, go to the checkout and ask for them to send help.  Start talking a little more loudly (it escalates the request) and if you have to ask a third time, tell them you are unhappy and want to talk to the manager.  Don't make it personal or too emotional -- that is not respected here.  Actually, this is good general advice for the culture here.  You need to be assertive and strong, without being emotional.  It's a battle of wills -- hang in there and you'll eventually get pretty good assistance.  

You will get customer assistance... IF you can find her, IF she's not on break, IF this is her department, IF... 

3)  Clothes:  know your size, as defined in Europe.  You might be targeting leather in Italy, wool shirts/jackets in the UK, and hopefully a nice dirndl/lederhosen for Oktoberfest here in Germany.  Rather than having to try on a dozen different items to find your size, be prepared so you can focus on style.  Different web sites show conversion charts, but they don't all agree.  This is what I carry with me on my Blackberry for reference (check out Wikipedia and OnlineConversion for more):

Underwear
The most common, and critical, emergency purchase.  Just be prepared for underwear on hangers rather than in packaging, and lots of skin tight options (boxers are available, but not as common).   

Store employee to me: "Old men get underwear in a package. You should get it on a hanger." Well....OK. Thanks.

US size 34 = European size 5 to 6
             36 = 6 to 7

T-Shirts
Large = 102
XL    = 107

Pants
Overall pretty straightforward, because it is absolute measurement in centimeters rather than inches (multiply by 2.54)

34 inch waist = 86 cm
36 inch waist = 91 cm

30 inch inseam = 76 cm
32 inch inseam = 81 cm

Dress Shirts
17 1/2 = 44 to 45

Men's Suit / Coat / Sweater
U.S. 38 = 46 to 48
       40 = 48 to 50 ("large")
       42 = 50 to 52 ("large-XL")
       44 = 52 to 54 ("XL")

       Warning:  For "short" and "tall" versions, these numbers might not work.
                        I am usually somewhere between 48-52 (Germany) but got a leather jacket that is XX.
                        I think it has slightly shorter arms, so I'm guessing that they just halved the typical size
                        to indicate that it is a XX but with shorter arms (?)
Socks
10 1/2 = 41
11       = 42

Shoes
10 1/2 = 44 to 45
11       = 45 to 46

In shoes, as in clothes, European bodies are just skinnier (Americans "fatter").  I have to specifically request the wide brands of shoes or I will rip the sides out in no time.

4)  Good strategy:  Stay within Europe's/Germany's strengths.  Don't buy Levi's jeans over here.  You'll pay double for something you can get in the U.S..   This is true for any brand widely available in America.  Instead, look for things like:    

• Local/regional products.  I have found a Swiss brand of dress shirts that I love.  Eterna.  They're a little pricey, but you can find them on sale and the fit is fantastic.  Plus Swiss quality.  Nice.  I also have had good experience at THE men's store in Munich, Hirmer.  Good suits, decent prices, and the assistants really add value (knew the suit that would fit me best -- turned out to be right).  Ask the store assistant for recommendations on local/regional products that they would recommend.
• Things that the culture values.  Think Alps.  Germany is a real outdoor culture, and has hiking and skiing products that reflect it.  I love the backpacks from Deuter, and trekking wear from Mammut (another Swiss company), and Maier ski wear.  The Alpine sport section at Schuster is great -- you'll never again see so many kinds of hiking shoes.
• Things that are unique to the culture.  In this case, maybe not clothes but culinaria.  Frau A and I just got individual feuerzangenbowle holders from the FireCupCompany and LOVE 'em.  Also, consider a small raclette/grill...
  ... However, I draw the line a patently ridiculous attempts to bleed tourists of money.  For example, haggis-flavoured potato chips.  Really - there is demand for such a product?  Skip such novelty items.

Frau A and I will try to post some more German shopping tips, as well as conversions for women's sizes - leave a comment if you're looking for a specific recommendation in Munich.  Good luck!