Not your ordinary German beer...

I always enjoy seeing what they have in new grocery stores. (Herr J can attest to how long I can spend in a store in a foreign country, amazed by the different products). In Germany, I like to check out the beer section in different regions, to see if there are some new beers to try.

They've started carrying Dr. Pepper, Mountain Dew, and Antarctica's Guarana soda in some of the stores in Munich.

However, my most recent discovery is really rather shocking.

No, your eyes are not decieving you...They really ARE selling The Beast and Busch here, in the Galleria store at Frankfurt Hauptwache!

Of all the American beers they could be selling here......

Fünf Höfe Photo Fun

On the way home from a Sunday photowalk through the English Garden, Herr J and I cut through the Fünf Höfe, one of Central Munich's shopping centers.  I've always liked the architecture there, particularly the modern and airy passages in the middle of a historic city block. But we were shocked to realize what fun photo opportunities were in there. All of the textures and reflections were great fun for playing around with HDR photography. 

 

"Fünf Höfe" means "Five Courtyards" in German, an appropriate name for the building spanning a block with passages full of cafes, restaurants, and shops.  And, as a typical German real estate asset, it has offices and apartments on the upper floors. Sitting between the Frauenkirche and Odeonsplatz, the building has an important history as the home of HypoVereinsbank, one of Munich's oldest banks (its roots trace back to the late 1700s). As is often the case here, they sought to keep the historical facade of the building while building something modern and new inside.  According to the center's website, the design was inspired by the courtyards of the nearby Residenz palace.  I often take a shortcut through there as a nice change of pace - it's usually peaceful and with comfortable "weather" inside.

It's quite a nice place to spend a rainy, wintry Sunday afternoon, visiting the Hypo Kunsthalle art museum, followed by coffee in one of the cafes or lunch at Vapiano (reliably good and open late and on Sunday).  During the week, you can shop at a variety of clothing, home, and art stores, as well as Munich's Muji. (Muji is a Japanese home/small good store that's worth a browse, if you've never been in one.  Their focus is on no-brand, minimalist products, usually made of recyclable materials. But they have a great blend of form and function, so that you'll have a really hard time walking out without finding several things you "need"). 

The museum entrance is on the Theatinerstraße side and, though small for a museum, often has good exhibits. There have been a wide variety of themes, artists, and time periods, with the exhibit changing every few months. The Mark Rothko retrospective a couple of years ago was particularly good.  As it's an exhibition gallery rather than one with a permanent collection, you'll need to check periodically to see what's there.

In addition to the open entrances to the passages, there are other areas with open roofs, blurring the boundaries between indoors and outdoors.  

As the complex houses the small museum that Hypovereinsbank sponsors, they also integrated art into the architecture. The hanging gardens through the Salvatorpassage actually are a living installation by Düsseldorf artist Tita Giese.

They blend in so well that they almost escape notice, but you'll also find 12 laser-printed panels throughout the building. These are prints of photos by German photographer Thomas Ruff, meant "give onlookers the impression that they are floating over cityscapes and the countryside." These scenes are of nature, the Munich area in which the Fünf Höfe sits, and Manhattan streets.  You'll see one on the floor in the picture below (bottom right corner).

And the most noticeable art piece hangs in the Viscardihof - a giant steel lattice-work sphere by Olafur Eliasson, an Icelandic artist. The shape and structure is supposed to represent "global openness and worldwide networks."

 

source - Fünf Höfe website

The Good Side of German Customer Service

As previously mentioned, customer service in Germany sometimes can surprise you...on the postive side, a service person's incredible knowledge in his or her area of expertise is shocking. And you will often come across people in stores who take great pride in their department.

Herr J's neighborhood grocery store is a great example of this. The man who runs the wine section spent 7 years in New Zealand, and therefore is always on the lookout for good NZ wines to include in the store's selection. The wine section of the store is "his" section, and he takes great pride in it. He holds wine tastings in the store every few months and likes to interact with customers to find out what they enjoy and how he can improve the selection.

One of the butchers there has a similar approach. In addition to the normal meat selection, they offer a variety of pre-marinated or pre-assembled meat dishes (think kebabs, roulade, etc.). We've found the marinades to be exceptionally good, and he explained to Herr J that he enjoys experimenting and making new creations to sell to customers.

His thinly sliced bacon-wrapped pork spirals on a stick were pretty amazing, so when we saw this unusual looking thing in the meat counter, we had to try it:

It looked like raw hamburger braided with strips of puff pastry, so I expected it would taste similar to the beer and beef pies I usually have on hand in the fridge...just in a different shape.

We still don't know what these are called, but we're going to experiment with making them. The taste was wonderful - the ground beef (a very lean beef, as is typical here) was mixed with onion, garlic, and spices, sandwiched between strips of puff pastry, then braided. You cook around 150°C for 15-25 minutes, and then we turned it up a little at the end.

The results were so great! We're looking forward to seeing what else the butcher creates.  

Tips for Shopping in Germany

A significant part of any travel/tourism experience is shopping.  Most visitors to Germany are looking for memorabilia rather than day-to-day items like groceries and clothes.  You usually eat in restaurants while travelling, have packed the clothes you need, and want to bring home items that are long-lasting reminders of the experience.  Besides, the groceries and clothes are not THAT much different than in the U.S. and cost considerably more.  (Thanks, VAT!)

However, Frau A and I live in Germany.  I need to get groceries, replace dress shirts & shoes, and yes, get new underwear.  I've learned a few things about shopping in Germany, and want to help ex-pats and tourists get more for their Euros.

1)  Stores are NOT open Sundays or Holiday.  Therefore, Saturday is complete chaos.  Especially before a long holiday weekend.  You get your things then, or have to wait until next weekend.  Brace yourself.  
Also, make sure to check their Saturday hours...it's only in the last 15 years that stores could be open past 4pm on Saturdays, and many of the smaller stores still close earlier than the Bavarian 8pm closing time. (Check your city's hours....the laws vary by state - Frankfurt has some open until 9 or 9:30; Stuttgart has an unbelievable midnight closing to some stores!)

The Apple Store in downtown Munich. It's a war out there.

2)  Store employees:  excellent know-how... if you can find somebody.  In Germany, the store employees in general really know what they're talking about.  They get significant amounts of training and are constantly learning about the latest products.  They can explain the different thermal properties of wool vs. synthetic materials, what brands tend to run bigger or smaller, and know every single pocket/zipper/secret compartment on every backpack in the store.

The problem is actually getting someone to help you.  The store employees are CIA-level experts at moving around undetected.  Also, the level of competence described above has a price -- they are often posted only for a very specific part of the store.  The person in the skiing jackets area will NOT help you with hiking jackets or boots, because they have not been trained on those products.  So even if you do find someone, it is likely that they will have a great reason why they cannot help you.

Recommendation:  As is typical in Germany, the squeaky wheel gets the oil.  You need to be assertive -- keep finding and bugging store employees until somebody helps you.  If you can't find anybody, go to the checkout and ask for them to send help.  Start talking a little more loudly (it escalates the request) and if you have to ask a third time, tell them you are unhappy and want to talk to the manager.  Don't make it personal or too emotional -- that is not respected here.  Actually, this is good general advice for the culture here.  You need to be assertive and strong, without being emotional.  It's a battle of wills -- hang in there and you'll eventually get pretty good assistance.  

You will get customer assistance... IF you can find her, IF she's not on break, IF this is her department, IF... 

3)  Clothes:  know your size, as defined in Europe.  You might be targeting leather in Italy, wool shirts/jackets in the UK, and hopefully a nice dirndl/lederhosen for Oktoberfest here in Germany.  Rather than having to try on a dozen different items to find your size, be prepared so you can focus on style.  Different web sites show conversion charts, but they don't all agree.  This is what I carry with me on my Blackberry for reference (check out Wikipedia and OnlineConversion for more):

Underwear
The most common, and critical, emergency purchase.  Just be prepared for underwear on hangers rather than in packaging, and lots of skin tight options (boxers are available, but not as common).   

Store employee to me: "Old men get underwear in a package. You should get it on a hanger." Well....OK. Thanks.

US size 34 = European size 5 to 6
             36 = 6 to 7

T-Shirts
Large = 102
XL    = 107

Pants
Overall pretty straightforward, because it is absolute measurement in centimeters rather than inches (multiply by 2.54)

34 inch waist = 86 cm
36 inch waist = 91 cm

30 inch inseam = 76 cm
32 inch inseam = 81 cm

Dress Shirts
17 1/2 = 44 to 45

Men's Suit / Coat / Sweater
U.S. 38 = 46 to 48
       40 = 48 to 50 ("large")
       42 = 50 to 52 ("large-XL")
       44 = 52 to 54 ("XL")

       Warning:  For "short" and "tall" versions, these numbers might not work.
                        I am usually somewhere between 48-52 (Germany) but got a leather jacket that is XX.
                        I think it has slightly shorter arms, so I'm guessing that they just halved the typical size
                        to indicate that it is a XX but with shorter arms (?)
Socks
10 1/2 = 41
11       = 42

Shoes
10 1/2 = 44 to 45
11       = 45 to 46

In shoes, as in clothes, European bodies are just skinnier (Americans "fatter").  I have to specifically request the wide brands of shoes or I will rip the sides out in no time.

4)  Good strategy:  Stay within Europe's/Germany's strengths.  Don't buy Levi's jeans over here.  You'll pay double for something you can get in the U.S..   This is true for any brand widely available in America.  Instead, look for things like:    

• Local/regional products.  I have found a Swiss brand of dress shirts that I love.  Eterna.  They're a little pricey, but you can find them on sale and the fit is fantastic.  Plus Swiss quality.  Nice.  I also have had good experience at THE men's store in Munich, Hirmer.  Good suits, decent prices, and the assistants really add value (knew the suit that would fit me best -- turned out to be right).  Ask the store assistant for recommendations on local/regional products that they would recommend.
• Things that the culture values.  Think Alps.  Germany is a real outdoor culture, and has hiking and skiing products that reflect it.  I love the backpacks from Deuter, and trekking wear from Mammut (another Swiss company), and Maier ski wear.  The Alpine sport section at Schuster is great -- you'll never again see so many kinds of hiking shoes.
• Things that are unique to the culture.  In this case, maybe not clothes but culinaria.  Frau A and I just got individual feuerzangenbowle holders from the FireCupCompany and LOVE 'em.  Also, consider a small raclette/grill...
  ... However, I draw the line a patently ridiculous attempts to bleed tourists of money.  For example, haggis-flavoured potato chips.  Really - there is demand for such a product?  Skip such novelty items.

Frau A and I will try to post some more German shopping tips, as well as conversions for women's sizes - leave a comment if you're looking for a specific recommendation in Munich.  Good luck!

Odd Jobs: Teddy Bear Tester

So many fascinating jobs out there...ones we dream of having, ones we hope to avoid. And others that suprise us by their existence.

Last year Der Spiegel interviewed German toymaker Steiff's director of quality control, a man identified as Mr. Krebs. I have to wonder if this is an alias, as his name means Mr. Cancer. A strangely appropriate name for a man whose job is to mutilate and destroy sweet, soft little teddy bears.

Der Spiegel writer Michaela Schiessel describes his job as:

In the land of stuffed animals, there is conflict twice a week. That's when the designers at famed German stuffed toy maker Steiff are required to present their latest creations to the director of quality control, a man named Mr. Krebs. He is completely immune to the heartbreakingly sweet faces of teddy bears, cuddly baby rabbits and cute longhaired guinea pigs. The furry toys' baby-like faces do not trigger any paternal feelings in Krebs.

 

Instead, his feelings toward the toys are driven by scientific curiosity. When Krebs sees a stuffed animal, his first thought is to burn it, drown it and wring its neck. He chars them, covers them with saliva and tears at their heads. He rubs acid into their fur, roasts them under UV light and tests the way they respond to all sorts of chemicals.

Only when a test bear has survived Krebs' onslaught is it permitted to become a Steiff animal. And when that happens, it gets the company's trademark button in its ear -- a medal for bravery, if you will -- at company headquarters in the town of Giengen in southwestern Germany.

In the land of stuffed animals, there is conflict twice a week. That's when the designers at famed German stuffed toy maker Steiff are required to present their latest creations to the director of quality control, a man named Mr. Krebs. He is completely immune to the heartbreakingly sweet faces of teddy bears, cuddly baby rabbits and cute longhaired guinea pigs. The furry toys' baby-like faces do not trigger any paternal feelings in Krebs.

 

Instead, his feelings toward the toys are driven by scientific curiosity. When Krebs sees a stuffed animal, his first thought is to burn it, drown it and wring its neck. He chars them, covers them with saliva and tears at their heads. He rubs acid into their fur, roasts them under UV light and tests the way they respond to all sorts of chemicals.

Amusing as the job may be, Steiff is a prime example of German focus on quality - and also the willingness to pay high prices for quality.  Selling poor quality goods (except where they're marketed as low cost alternatives) is a guaranteed strategy to lose your customers here. Though departments stores and supermarkets have found a place here, there still are numerous small specialty stores where you go to get advice from the experts. Just in a 2 block radius from my apartment, we have a couple of model train stores, a knife store, a store selling small personal appliances (razors, toothbrushes, etc), a wig store, and a sewing store. Additionally, when you visit a large sports store, the salespeople are experts in their areas - they actually know the products and can advise you on your purchase. If you can get someone's attention....

When looking at sofas in a large furniture store, we were initially frustrated that there was only one salesperson for a small group of sofas and that no other salesperson could help us. Knowing that most service personnel in Germany work on salary, rather than commission, we knew it was not a financial issue. We later learned that each section had a salesperson who was an expert on those products and could answer any questions - therefore, the others could not help outside their areas. Still a bit frustrating to get help, but the system does make sense.

Back to Steiff....We've already learned about the famous Reinheitsgebot, or Beer Purity Law, stating that beer can only contain water, barley, and hops. Steiff has its own Reinheitsgebot, as a 10 point Purity Law governing the production of their plush toys!

And the price/quality tradeoff? Well, these cute little guys are tested and have various quality certifications....and you're going to pay $50-150 or more for a teddy bear ($235 for the 12 inch Pug). They are super soft and the other animals are adorable, but it was a bit of a shock to me to see those prices on a stuffed animal! However, that's where we can see one big general difference between German and American cultures. Whether it's clothing, furniture, electronics, or teddy bears...Germans buy fewer items, but of higher quality. As Americans, we're used to low priced, almost disposable goods. We buy more impulsively, and we don't expect to keep things for years. Germans will plan purchases, investigate quality and options, and most often will save up for a purchase rather than buying it on credit. And they demand quality and longevity out of major purchases.  I'm still often shocke by the prices here, but I'm starting to understand the system.

Fahrvergnügen Begins at a Very Young Age

I was discussing cars with a German colleague one day, and had the audacity to say that I thought Lexus were pretty nice.  He scoffed.  I explained that they were slightly more ride oriented, versus drive oriented.  In other words, a little quieter inside and softer suspension, but still in the same league quality- and performance-wise with BMW and Mercedes and Audi.  (Lexus and Infiniti now offer more sport-tuned versions of their models, while the German brands have been reducing noise and improving seats, so there seems to be convergence...)

He laughed and said "I would never buy one of those, or any non-German car.  I don't care about comfort -- I want to be so in touch with the road that I feel and hear it when my tires wander onto the white painted line!"  It's a little extreme for me, but okay.  That's the attitude that made BMW what is is, right?

I'm guessing Germans begin their obsession with 4-wheeled objects, quality, and performance at a young age.  VERY young.  When Frau A and I were walking through a large furniture/homewares store recently, we saw this in the baby section: 

This is a short test track for trying out baby carriages!  Shoppers are free to take any baby carriage on a, um, test drive, and see how it "handles" on brick, small stone (like the walking paths in Munich's English Garden), and cobblestone (like many older streets).  Some top-of-the-line baby movers had effectively shock absorbers, and cost the equivalent of $800!

Ironically, the obsession with engineering here actually makes the baby pusher (and, of course, the baby) less in touch with the road -- the opposite of their view on cars.  Seems that having a quiet, happy baby trumps fuel-injected dreams every time.

Revenge Is Sweet

On Saturday, my neighborhood bath and body store had an amusing promotion...The Ex-Factor.

 

The flyer reads:

Revenge is sweet...and sometimes it pricks too.

Come to LUSH and take revenge on your ex. Disguise yourself, celebrate with like-minded people, write a message to your old flam on the back of this card and stick it on the Voodoo-Doll hanging in our window.

Free yourself from the old, and who knows who you might meet?

These little blue voodoo dolls actually are part of the Valentine's collection, and are one of LUSH's bath bombs (ylang-ylang scented). 

The description in store reads:

Ex-Factor Voodoo-bathball

Tear his arms off, hack his head off, or stab him in the heart. Then drown him, so that you also get something out of it.

On the website, the ad reads:

Well, not everyone can enjoy Valentine's Day. Especially with a broken heart, it's not easy to bear all the tokens of love around you. Put this little vanilla guy in your bath, when the heart balloons and teddy bears in the shops are just too much and watch as it slowly dissolves in water - representative of your heartache!

    

They hung the giant cardboard voodoo doll in the window, for everyone to put up their notes to exes. By the end of the day, they had collected German, Spanish, English, and the universal symbol for Lorena Bobbit.  

Some highlights:

I curse the day of your birth!!

I'm happy I got rid of you! :)

I want my innocence back!

Hello D, You have destroyed my family! Thankfully now I have someone better.

I hope you learn how to love. You won't be happy until you do!

Thanks for almost 4 year wrecked realtionship with you, P, it was hell! You are an idiot who never took advantage of the chances I gave you. Find someone else. Moron. You have had enough chances. I've found someone who I mean more to and who cares about my health and cancer. You were always the same. Moron, loser, idiot.

You stupid idiot. I hate you! The time I spent with you was a waste of time for me. I hope you have a hard life.

 
Interestingly enough, they don't all look like female handwriting! But if writing an anonymous note helps people feel better (and the store bring in customers), I say go for it!